In this episode, Courtney Heitter discusses her journey as a mountaineer and the genesis of her podcast, 'You're Not Qualified.' She shares her experience of starting mountaineering without a background in athletics and how she overcame the belief that she wasn't qualified for certain pursuits. Courtney emphasizes the importance of listening to your own voice and not letting others define your capabilities. She also talks about reframing failure as a learning opportunity and the parallel trajectory between her climbing journey and her career. In this conversation, Courtney and Lisa discuss the importance of embracing discomfort and failure as part of the journey towards achieving dreams. They share personal experiences of facing challenges and overcoming self-doubt in mountaineering expeditions. Courtney emphasizes the value of surrounding oneself with supportive and honest individuals who believe in your abilities. They also discuss the significance of setting goals and pushing oneself outside of the comfort zone. Courtney shares her upcoming goals, including climbing Denali and other challenging peaks.

Takeaways

• Don't let the belief that you're not qualified hold you back from pursuing your passions.
• Listen to your own voice and prioritize your own goals and aspirations over what others say.
• Reframe failure as a learning opportunity and a stepping stone towards success.
• The journey and the process are just as important as reaching the summit. Embrace discomfort and failure as part of the journey towards achieving dreams.
• Surround yourself with supportive and honest individuals who believe in your abilities.
• Set goals and push yourself outside of your comfort zone.
• Learn from challenges and grow as a person.
• It's never too late to start pursuing your passions and dreams.

Engagement Link

https://www.instagram.com/ynqpod/

You're Not Qualified - A Podcast

In this episode of Finding Elevation, host Lisa Thompson interviews Tom Cuddy, an exercise physiologist, to discuss exercise physiology and the testing he does to understand an athlete's physiology. He explains the different energy systems in the body and how they produce ATP, the role of muscle fibers in different types of athletes, and the importance of lactate in energy production. Tom also discusses the use of physiological testing to design training programs and optimize performance. In this conversation, Tom Cuddy discusses the importance of understanding training design and tailoring it to individual goals and needs. He emphasizes the significance of knowing the energy systems and fuel sources required for specific activities, such as mountaineering. Tom also highlights the misconception that high-intensity training is necessary for progress and explains the importance of low-intensity training for endurance goals. He delves into the concept of running economy and introduces the idea of vertical running economy, which measures the energy expenditure of running uphill. Tom shares his research findings on the determinants of vertical running economy and the physiological metrics that contribute to efficient uphill running. He also discusses the accessibility of metabolic testing and his efforts to make it more available to athletes.

Takeaways

• There are different energy systems in the body that produce ATP to fuel muscle contraction during exercise.
• Muscle fibers play a role in an athlete's performance, with slow twitch fibers being used during low-intensity activities and fast twitch fibers being used during high-intensity activities.
• Lactate is an important fuel source that can be recycled and used by different muscle fibers.
• Physiological testing, such as VO2 max and lactate threshold testing, can provide valuable information for designing training programs and optimizing performance.
• Training can influence an athlete's physiology and the percentage of different muscle fibers in their body. Understanding the specific goals and needs of an individual is crucial for designing effective training programs.
• Tailoring training to maximize the relevant energy systems and fuel sources is essential for optimal performance.
• Contrary to popular belief, low-intensity training plays a significant role in achieving endurance goals.
• Running economy, including vertical running economy, is an important metric for measuring energy expenditure during uphill running.
• Physiological metrics such as VO2 max, VO2 at lactate threshold, and lactate levels can help predict and improve running economy.
• Efforts are being made to make metabolic testing more accessible to athletes and provide actionable insights for training.

Engagement Link

https://www.calibratedcoaching.com/

• Mental strength is crucial in mountaineering, especially as climbers reach higher altitudes where physical performance is limited.
• Balancing resilience with pushing too far requires discernment, which can be developed through respect, education, skill, communication, and experience.
• Assessing and managing risk is challenging, and climbers must be aware of confirmation bias and the difficulty of making good decisions in intense situations.
• Mitigating risk involves evaluating the likelihood and consequences of potential dangers and setting personal limits to ensure safety.

In this episode of Finding Elevation, host Lisa Thompson interviews her friend Dr. Tracee Metcalfe, an expedition doctor, and high altitude mountaineer. They discuss Dr. Metcalfe's journey into mountaineering, common medical issues in the mountains, using medications like Diamox while climbing, and managing altitude sickness. Dr. Metcalfe also shares details on her upcoming project to climb the final 5 of the world's 14 8,000-meter peaks to raise money for Ascend Athletics, an organization that teaches mountaineering skills to women in Pakistan and Afghanistan.

Main Discussion Points:

• How Dr. Metcalfe first got into climbing after moving to Colorado for college despite growing up in southern California
• Treating acute mountain sickness, sunburns, frostbite, blisters and other issues as an expedition doctor on mountains like Denali and Everest
• Using medications like Diamox for better sleep and oxygen saturation at altitude
• Recognizing signs of pulmonary edema and cerebral edema
• Dr. Metcalfe's upcoming climbs of Shishapangma, Lhotse, the Gasherbrums, and Broad Peak to complete all 14 eight-thousanders
• Fundraising through her climbs for Ascend Athletics, an organization that teaches women in Pakistan and Afghanistan leadership and mountaineering skills.

Links:

https://traceelmetcalfe.com/

Tracee’s fundraising site to teach Pakistani girls mountain skills: https://www.pledge.to/empowering-girls-to-climb-to-new-heights--

Colorado Mountain Club

Helpful Gear:

AirTrim mask

LeukoTape

Alpine Armor Tape

Hydrocolloidal Patches

Blister Seals

In this episode, host Lisa Thompson provides a wealth of tips and advice for preparing to climb Mount Everest. She shares insights on physical training, mental preparation, gear selection, nutrition, teammates, and more based on her own experience climbing the mountain as well as coaching other climbers.

Key Discussion Points

• Overview of Everest history, including the first confirmed and controversial first summits (00:02:12)
• Primary routes—north/Tibet side vs south/Nepal side - and their pros and cons (00:06:45)
• Physical training tips: building cardio capacity, mountain-specific strength, and endurance (00:13:31)
• Importance of mental toughness above 23,000 ft (00:20:30)
• Practical preparation tips: inform loved ones, watch route videos, set nutrition plan, and assemble gear early (00:21:50)
• Strategies during climb - boundaries, positive self-talk, anticipating worries (00:25:38)
• Motivational tools - voice memos from friends, letter to self (00:45:50)

Key Quotes

"I just think that there is so much that you learn when you're on a Himalayan expedition about coping and being away from home and living in an inhospitable environment and, you know, working with an environment and, you know, working with a diverse team of people you may not know." (00:11:35)

"It's up to each of us to be a little more considerate and a little more adaptable and a little more accommodating." (00:36:38) on team dynamics

"I want if I'm coaching you, I want everything that you're carrying to be functional so that it's gonna help you get up and down the mountain and putting on extra fat before you go isn't going to do that." (00:44:38) on gaining weight before the climb

Community and Engagement Links

The Third Pole by Mark Synnott

Lisa's Everest blog

The Altitude Center

In this episode of the Finding Elevation podcast, host Lisa Thompson discusses the impact of mindfulness and mindset on performance for mountain athletes. She shares how practices like meditation, intention-setting, visualization, and breathwork can transform both climbing ability and overall wellbeing.

Key Discussion Points

• The connection between mindset and performance, initially noticed when a seemingly capable climber turned around early on Mt. Rainier due to mental barriers (00:01:00)
• Research showing meditation physically changes the brain to improve focus and decrease reactivity/fear (00:07:00)
• Tips for building a meditation practice, starting with just 5 minutes a day (00:21:41)
• Using mantras and intention-setting to override negative self-talk and reframe challenges (00:29:15)
• Leveraging visualization to pre-experience difficult sections of a climbing route (00:35:59) 
• Not ignoring fear but categorizing it and reframing it before moving forward (00:33:24)

Community and Engagement Links

Studies:

• NIH study
• Purdue study
• Your brain doesn’t know the difference between what you think and experience 

Meditation Apps:

• Calm
• Headspace
• Insight timer

Book:

The Mindful Athlete by George Mumford

In this episode of the podcast, mountaineer Lisa Thompson shares tips and insights on climbing Denali (formerly known as Mt. McKinley), the highest peak in North America. Listeners can expect to learn about the history of the mountain, what makes it challenging to climb, best practices for training, fitness and gear preparation, and managing life after returning from a big mountain expedition.

Key Discussion Points:

• History and meaning behind the name "Denali" (00:00:33)
• Geological features like the steep relief add to the challenge (00:02:02)
• Typical timing of the climbing season and conditions that impact summit success rates (00:04:15)
• Physical demands like carrying heavy loads on sleds and tips for self-care (00:05:46)
• Required mountaineering skills like crevasse rescue and efficient movement in crampons (00:47:01)
• Mental preparation strategies and training in bad weather (00:44:51)
• Gear considerations like having a backup plan if heated accessories fail (00:52:17)
• Coming home after weeks in harsh conditions and feeling disconnected (00:57:38)

Community and Engagement Links

https://www.alpineathletics.net/webinar

Minus 148 Degrees: https://amzn.to/47J1lB9

Desire and Ice: https://amzn.to/47K3hJC

The Last of His Kind: https://amzn.to/3Swb6hW

In the Shadow of Denali: https://amzn.to/3Std1nl