If you’ve ever felt stuck covering resistant gray hair or wondered why your go-to formula suddenly stopped working—this episode is for you. In Part 2 of our gray coverage series, Dustin and I are getting even deeper into the why and how behind successful gray coverage. From pre-softening to ammonia shots, we’re breaking down the lesser-known techniques that can seriously change the game behind the chair.

We’re also talking about the importance of individualized formulations, the myths around 20 volume, why never to premix your color, and how listening to what your client really means can prevent major color mishaps. Whether you’re dealing with that one stubborn patch of gray or trying to rework a shoe-polish disaster, this episode is full of practical tools and creative insights you can start using right away.

Episode Timeline:

[1:30] – What pre-softening really is—and how to use it effectively

[5:22] – Why ammonia content matters more than you think

[10:15] – The power of keeping detailed records for forensic formulation

[15:48] – Debunking the myth of 20 volume as a gray coverage must

[21:30] – Using ammonia shots to boost penetration without excess pigment

[28:45] – Strategies for covering frizzy or wiry gray around the hairline

[34:10] – Why creativity (and not comfort) keeps your formulations strong

[40:00] – Consulting at every appointment—even with long-time clients

[46:55] – The big no-no: why you should never premix your color

[50:30] – How to get our free Gray Coverage Tips PDF and ask us questions!

🔗 Links & Resources:

Download the FREE Gray Coverage PDF: hairmdpod.com/graycoverage

More resources & tools: hairmdpod.com

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Ever find yourself struggling with the do’s and don’ts of gray coverage behind the chair? You're not alone—and this episode is packed with the real talk you’ve been craving. Whether you’re a seasoned pro or a curious colorist-in-training, Dustin and I (Melissa!) are diving deep into our biggest pet peeves and must-know strategies when it comes to formulating for gray hair. From over-pigmented formulas to that dreaded “zipper” effect down the part line, we’re breaking down what really works and what doesn’t.

We’re pulling back the curtain on all things gray: resistant strands, ammonia myths, banding, translucency tricks, and how to individualize formulas by zone. We’re also sharing creative ways to blend, soften, and extend gray coverage without going too dark—or too warm. If you’re ready to step off autopilot and into more intentional coloring, this episode is a must-listen.

⏱️ Episode Timeline:

[1:15] - Our gray hair pet peeves

[5:40] - Why translucent coverage can be better than full opacity

[11:30] - The issue with using too much pigment in gray formulas

[16:22] - Understanding how ammonia and alkalinity really affect gray coverage

[23:50] - Why you should treat every part of the head differently

[29:40] - Tips for managing high-contrast hair and gray blending

[36:10] - The “Calico effect” and the dangers of one-size-fits-all formulas

[41:15] -Parting hacks and shape changes to disguise gray regrowth

[48:40] - Wrapping up with ways to reframe client expectations

🔗 Links & Resources:

• Visit hairmdpod.com for free downloads, PDFs, and additional tools for colorists
• Stay tuned for Part 2 of this gray coverage series in our next episode!

💬 Enjoyed this episode?

If you learned something new or felt seen by our salon struggles, do us a favor—share this episode with your stylist friends and leave a rating and review wherever you listen. It helps more colorists like you find the show and level up behind the chair. Thanks for being part of the Hair MD fam!

takeaways

• Navigating the challenges of hair color requires understanding client preferences.
• Translucent coverage can soften the appearance of regrowth.
• Using too much pigment can lead to an unnatural look.
• Gray hair often requires specialized coverage techniques.
• Different hair types may need tailored color formulas.
• Managing client expectations is crucial for satisfaction.
• Lightening dark hair can be complex and requires careful planning.
• Individualized approaches yield better results in hair coloring.
• Spot treatments can be effective for resistant gray hair.
• There is no one-size-fits-all solution in hair coloring.