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444. Colorado Craft: Unpacking the Terroir and Tradition at Laws Whiskey House

444. Colorado Craft: Unpacking the Terroir and Tradition at Laws Whiskey House

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This episode of the Bourbon Road podcast features Jim Shannon (traveling in Denver, Colorado) interviewing Al Laws of Laws Whiskey House. Laws shares the history and philosophy behind his Denver-based distillery, emphasizing their grain-to-glass approach using heirloom Colorado grains like Centennial white wheat and San Luis Valley rye. He discusses the mash bill of their flagship Four Grain Bourbon (60% corn, 20% wheat, 10% rye, 10% malt) and the specific flavor contributions of each grain, including the unique "penny metallic bite" from the rye and nutty finish from the scarlet barley. Laws explains how they adjusted their cooking technique to achieve balance in the Four Grain Bourbon and credits his mentor, Bill Friel, a veteran distiller from Bardstown, Kentucky.

Laws recounts his personal journey from oil and gas finance in Canada to pursuing his obsession with American whiskey, driven by a desire for hands-on artistry and authenticity. He highlights the historical significance of the Bottle in Bond Act as the first U.S. consumer protection law and Laws Whiskey House's pioneering role as the first Bottled-in-Bond whiskey in Colorado.

The conversation also delves into their 100% Rye Whiskey, exploring the earthy notes derived from the soil where the grain is grown at high altitude in the San Luis Valley. They taste a Cognac Cask Finished Bourbon, discussing the process of layering in different aged bourbons into French oak casks and a large 1600-gallon foeder for integration, resulting in a richer, more integrated flavor over years. This Solera-style finished bourbon is a special, limited annual release. They also try a high-proof, high-wheat blend called "Super Wheater," noting its intense flavor and how water or ice can open it up.

Laws describes the unique distillery visit experience, featuring a "Whiskey Church" for educational tastings and a "Whiskey Sanctuary" tasting room with panoramic mountain views. He emphasizes the importance of their team, calling the distillery a "village". They discuss distribution, noting availability in about 15-16 states, with Illinois being a strong market, and the best way to purchase is often directly online or at the distillery.

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