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Nestled in the rugged hills of Montserrat, Spain, lies a winemaking story so unlikely you might think it's fiction. Jürgen Wagner, a German-born winemaker who now leads exports for Capçanes winery, takes us through an extraordinary journey of transformation, tradition, and unexpected salvation.

This small cooperative of just 55 farming families was on the brink of collapse in the early 1990s. Having been downgraded from bulk wine producer to mere grape supplier, their future looked bleak until a Barcelona Rabbi made an unusual request: could they produce kosher wine? That decision in 1995 not only saved the cooperative but catapulted them to unexpected fame when their second vintage was rated the third-best wine in all of Spain—kosher or not.

Wagner reveals the fascinating parallels between ancient kosher winemaking laws and modern natural wine practices. The prohibition of animal-derived fining agents, commitment to minimal intervention, and reliance on indigenous yeasts creates wines of remarkable purity and expression. Working with century-old bush-trained vines yielding just 1800-3000 kg per hectare (versus a potential 15,000+), Capçanes crafts wines of extraordinary concentration and character from their mountainous terroir.

Perhaps most compelling is their innovative approach to vineyard management. Through a point system that rewards quality farming practices, organic methods, and continuous education, they've created powerful incentives for their member farmers.

Today, Capçanes exports to over 60 countries, with 15% of their 600,000-bottle production dedicated to kosher wines. As climate change presents new challenges, they remain focused not on expansion but on strengthening relationships and maintaining their commitment to quality. Subscribe to hear more remarkable stories of wineries where tradition meets innovation, and cultures connect through a shared love of exceptional wine.

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