Against the Water

A surfing champion's inspirational journey to Olympic glory

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Against the Water

By: Owen Wright

Narrated by: Barton Welch

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About this listen

The gut-wrenching story of how one of Australia’s finest surfers overcame a brain injury and despair to win an Olympic medal.

On the morning of 10 December 2015, Owen Wright entered the water at Pipeline, Hawaii, determined to become a world champion. But after being pounded by a set of monstrous waves, he ended up fighting for life and facing extensive brain trauma. In this inspirational memoir, Wright chronicles the events leading up to that fateful day, as well as the months and years that followed as he battled to regain basic functioning, and eventually the capacity to compete again at the apex of surfing.

Against the Water carries the reader back to Wright’s boyhood in the tiny town of Culburra, where his father, determined to raise champions, turned family life into a kind of boot camp. While eccentric, his father’s methods bore fruit: the Wrights of Culburra would become Australian surfing royalty. Owen’s story lays bare the complex relationship with his father – the adoration, the fight for independence, the fallings out, and the reconciliations.

Told in a spare, intimate style, Against the Water is the moving account of an athlete who refused to accept that his best days were behind him and raises fundamental questions around family and competition. What, ultimately, is our duty to our children? At what point does bravery become folly? And how much should we sacrifice for the sake of another?

‘Owen was a childhood phenom who grew into the ultimate family man. In between this transition, he took on the world, charged crazy waves, suffered a huge brain injury, and finished off with the all-time sporting comeback!’ Mick Fanning, three-time world champion surfer

‘Whatever it is that Owen is getting himself into, he seems to do it with little to no fear and a massive smile on his face. He’s an inspirational guy, to put it lightly. Owen is one special human!’ Liam Hemsworth, actor

‘Owen Wright has to be the most inspiring person I’ve ever met. His story is one of a childhood prodigy, to facing a near-death experience, to Australian hero . . . This book will inspire and motivate anyone who has had
to face adversity whilst following their dreams.’ Kita Alexander, singer-songwriter

‘[A] true fighter’s spirit!' Luke Rockhold, UFC middleweight champion, two-time jiu-jitsu world champion, three-time strikeforce middleweight champion

Adventurers, Explorers & Survival

Sports

Surfing

Inspiring

Critic Reviews

‘In the middle of the lockdowns, Owen came to stay with us. He had the North American leg of surf tour season and the Olympics right around the corner. Owen’s work ethic was apparent right from the get-go. All the gyms were closed, so Ow went to Walmart and brought home a $50 stationary bike. It was so small and so cheap but, let me tell you, that little bike could go. He would crush ten miles every day, never missing a beat. The mental capacity it took to do that many miles on that small of a bike . . . That’s a true fighter’s spirit! He never once got distracted or made an excuse in a time when everybody was, including myself. So obviously, when he took the bronze at the Olympics, I wasn’t surprised. I took that little Walmart bike and powder coated it bronze. She still sits in my front yard today, like a beautiful little lawn ornament. In memory of Ow and the Olympic dream.’ (Luke Rockhold, UFC middleweight champion, two-time jiu-jitsu world champion, three-time strikeforce middleweight champion)

‘Owen Wright has to be the most inspiring person I’ve ever met. I’m not only saying this with bias as his wife, but because I have never seen anyone with as much resilience, determination and natural talent as him. His story is one of a childhood prodigy, to facing a near-death experience, to Australian hero . . . This book will inspire and motivate anyone who has had to face adversity whilst following their dreams.’ (Kita Alexander, singer-songwriter)

‘Owen is one of those guys that I believe operates on one speed. It’s the “let’s fucking go” speed. Sunday BBQ? Let’s fucking go. Fifteen-foot barrels onto dry reef? Let’s fucking go. Whatever it is that Owen is getting himself into, he seems to do it with little to no fear and a massive smile on his face. His infectious humour and laughter is something you’ll never get tired of. He’s an inspirational guy, to put it lightly. Owen is one special human!’ (Liam Hemsworth, actor)

‘Owen was a childhood phenom who grew into the ultimate family man. In between this transition, he took on the world, charged crazy waves, suffered a huge brain injury, and finished off with the all-time sporting comeback! Surrounded by family and friends, his life has been the ultimate roller coaster.’ (Mick Fanning, three-time world champion surfer)

Most relevant

Firstly the narration was so good! A laid back Aussie male voice represented Owen very well. Owen’s story has highs and lows, and hearing his story and experiences from start until time of writing was really interesting. Such a well written and engaging book. As a surfing fan I really enjoyed it!