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Amazing Surfing Stories
- Tales of Incredible Waves and Remarkable Riders
- Narrated by: Mark Meadows
- Length: 6 hrs and 42 mins
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Excellent!
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Parochial and self-indulgent
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Beyond the Mountain
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really enjoyed the honesty and fallibility
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Meh
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Against the Water
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Excellent!
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The Rip Curl Story
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- Length: 13 hrs and 15 mins
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Overall
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Performance
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The Rip Curl Story is the remarkable tale of two young surfers who pursued an audacious dream to make a living in pursuit of the ultimate ride. The brand they built, Rip Curl, not only satisfied their own surf- and wanderlust but also inspired countless others, both fuelling and riding the wave of the global youth revolution of the late '60s. Rip Curl's mantra became 'the Search' - the chasing of new waves on distant shores - as they embraced new thrills such as skiing, snowboarding and windsurfing and aimed always to make better equipment to elevate the experience.
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Parochial and self-indulgent
- By Wednesday's Child on 06-01-2020
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Pipe Dreams
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Eleven-time world surfing champion, actor, and American heartthrob Kelly Slater tells his inspiring story of triumph over adversity. From Beach Blanket Bingo to Baywatch to Blue Crush, surfing has fascinated people for years, and Kelly Slater is the sport’s hottest star. He has won more world championships than any other competitor, and he continues to change peoples’ minds about what can and can’t be done on a surfboard.
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What does it take to be one of the world's best high-altitude mountain climbers? A lot of fundraising; traveling in some of the world's most dangerous countries; enduring cold bivouacs, searing lungs, and a cloudy mind when you can least afford one. It means learning the hard lessons the mountains teach. Steve House built his reputation on ascents throughout the Alps, Canada, Alaska, the Karakoram, and the Himalaya that have expanded possibilities of style, speed, and difficulty.
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- By John C on 31-01-2021
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if you surf read this book!
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In the summer of 1978, 21-year-old Paul Wilson jumps at the chance to join two local icons on a dream surf trip to mainland Mexico, unaware their ultimate destination lies in the heart of the drug cartel country. Having no earthly idea of where he’ll get the money to pay his share and determined to prove his mettle, he does the only thing he can think of: He robs a supermarket.
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Millions of us increasingly seek happiness in fads and self-help books, reaching upward every day toward some enlightened state that we wish to attain. Surfing icon Laird Hamilton is more intent on looking inward and appreciating the brilliant creatures we already are. In Liferider, Laird uses five key pillars - Death & Fear, Heart, Body, Soul, and Everything Is Connected - to illustrate his unique worldview and life practices. This is Laird Hamilton in his own words - raw, honest, and unvarnished - on topics he has rarely explored before.
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Publisher's Summary
An eclectic mix of exciting stories every surfer will love. This eclectic mix has something for everyone, from classic tales of monster waves and epic battles to stories of when life among the breakers goes wrong. There are accounts of death and disaster, as well as bravery and triumph. The bizarre and the extreme rub shoulders with perfect breaks and beautiful beaches. Be thrilled by legendary surfers like Laird Hamilton and Shane Dorian as well as learning about local heroes who never made the headlines. Epic battles among pros like Rob Machado and Kelly Slater are recounted alongside stories of weird waves and secret surf spots.
There are fascinating encounters with surfing’s true characters, men like Dave Rastovich and big wave world record holder Garrett McNamara; appearances by deadly sharks; stories of big wave surfing by night; and an account of how Agatha Christie’s famous disappearance for 11 days in December 1926 might just have been because she was on a surf trip. Travel from giants like California’s Maverick’s and Maui’s Jaws to tales of Dungeons, dolphins and the derring–do of a man like Colonel ‘Mad Jack’ Churchill. Turn the pages to flick between the left and rights of Britain, Europe, USA, Australia and many strange places in between. Each compelling tale has been chosen to stoke the fire of armchair surfers and hardcore wave–riders alike, and some are illustrated with colour photographs.