On this episode, we take a deep dive into Ming’s dive watches and why they’ve become such a defining, and perhaps unexpected, part of the brand’s identity. Rather than treating the category as a checkbox, we talk about how Ming approached dive watches as a design problem—one that demanded its own language, priorities, and point of view within a genre that’s already crowded with icons and conventions.

We explore the brand’s evolution from early experimental concepts to more confident production models, focusing on how Ming gradually shifted from interpreting the dive watch through familiar tropes to creating dive watches that feel unmistakably its own. The conversation centers on restraint, proportion, and the idea of the dive watch as something closer to an art object than a purely utilitarian tool, without losing sight of what makes the category compelling in the first place.

Finally, we reflect on the modern era of Ming dive watches and what makes them resonate so strongly with collectors today. Compact dimensions, inventive engineering solutions, and distinct aesthetic identities come together to create watches that feel both thoughtful and original. As certain models reach the end of their run, we frame this moment as the close of an important chapter—one that shows how Ming didn’t just participate in the dive watch category, but quietly reshaped it on its own terms.

Hosted by Asher Rapkin and Gabe Reilly of Collective Horology, the Watches of Podcast looks at the history, philosophy, personalities, and of course the watches of a different brand on each episode. Also available as video on YouTube. Collective is an authorized retailer of the brands featured on this podcast. You can learn more, and find their watches, at collectivehorology.com.

On this episode, Gabe and Asher discuss what makes Renaud Tixier one of the most conceptually ambitious projects in independent watchmaking today. The brand brings together two very different but complementary watchmakers: Dominique Renaud, co-founder of the legendary movement specialist Renaud & Papi, and Julien Tixier, a younger independent known for both traditional restoration skills and original complications.

Dominique Renaud’s legacy spans decades and more than two dozen significant horological developments created for brands like Audemars Piguet, IWC, and Jaeger-LeCoultre. Julien Tixier, by contrast, represents a new generation, combining deep handcraft with modern technical thinking. Together, they form a “horological supergroup,” not for a one-off project, but for a seven-watch series, each designed to solve a specific watchmaking problem.

The first watch in the series, the Monday, addresses a fundamental limitation of the micro-rotor: winding efficiency. Renaud’s solution introduces an inertia wheel inside the micro-rotor, allowing energy to continue winding the mainspring even after the rotor stops. The result is a genuine technical breakthrough, paired with Julien Tixier’s romantic, highly finished movement architecture and contributions from specialist artisans such as enamelers and engravers.

The Monday is not just a technical statement but a fully realized expression of collaborative independent watchmaking—beautifully made, deeply considered, and built around a clear reason for being. Renaud Tixier watches, including the Monday, are available at collectivehorology.com .

Hosted by Asher Rapkin and Gabe Reilly of Collective Horology, the Watches of Podcast looks at the history, philosophy, personalities, and of course the watches of a different brand on each episode. Also available as video on YouTube. Collective is an authorized retailer of the brands featured on this podcast. You can learn more, and find their watches, at collectivehorology.com.

On this episode, we look as how Holthinrichs—founded by Dutch architect-turned-watchmaker Michiel Holthinrichs—has become one of the most distinctive voices in independent watchmaking. While the brand is often associated with its use of 3D-printed case construction, the real focus is design: Michiel draws heavily on Art Nouveau, creating sculptural cases, bridges, and dials that all serve a coherent architectural vision.

Collective first connected with Holthinrichs at Geneva Watch Days, where Michiel arrived with a vintage briefcase full of watches. Seeing the pieces in person—especially the in-house Ornament Nouveau—made it clear how far the brand pushes form and case architecture.

The more accessible Signature Ornaments line keeps the same design language through CNC-machined titanium cases and a three-piece dial construction, including a sapphire dial layer that adds depth and shifting reflections on the wrist.

The watches are a distilled expression of Michiel’s design philosophy: wearable, visually engaging, and rooted in his architectural training and personal commitment to the brand. Of course, Holthinrichs' full collection is available at collectivehorology.com.

Hosted by Asher Rapkin and Gabe Reilly of Collective Horology, the Watches of Podcast looks at the history, philosophy, personalities, and of course the watches of a different brand on each episode. Also available as video on YouTube. Collective is an authorized retailer of the brands featured on this podcast. You can learn more, and find their watches, at collectivehorology.com.