Vince and Nathan dig into the trim details that quietly make or break a custom home. From choosing paint-grade vs. stain-grade, MDF vs. poplar, door construction, wall paneling, and “level 5” drywall, to why sconces, outlets, beams, and mantels must be planned months earlier than you think—this episode shows how trim decisions shape the entire build and the budget.

Key Takeaways

• Decide early: Trim choices affect electrical rough-in, drywall, and framing (panel sizes, sconce heights, outlet centers, beam backers).
• Finish strategy first: Choose stain-grade vs. paint-grade up front—cost and prep differ massively.
• Materials matter:
• MDF (paint) = smooth, stable, great finish; different sanding/filling workflow.
• Poplar (paint) = higher cost than pine, better finish, still needs proper undercoater.
• Doors: Solid-core MDF or Masonite delivers heft and less seasonal movement for painted doors.
• Drywall readiness: A true Level 5 is a whole-surface skim for uniform sheen—non-negotiable for high-gloss rooms.
• Details that sell the room: Proper coping on inside corners, the right corner bead radius (3/8” plays nice with trim), and coordinated profiles elevate the result.

Quick Builder’s Checklist

• □ Finish intent: Paint vs. stain (whole house + accent rooms like office/wine)
• □ Door spec: Solid-core on main level/primary suite; hinge type & finish (ball-bearing if heavy)
• □ Panel layout: Panel sizes and sconce/art light centering at rough-in
• □ Base height: Approve sample stack (floor + base) to center outlets in baseboard
• □ Corner bead: 3/8” round with adapters where needed; avoid square bead at arches
• □ Ceiling features: Coffers/beams planned at framing (backers, lighting, mantel clearance)
• □ Drywall level: Confirm Level 5 where high-gloss or critical lighting is planned
• □ Profiles: Lock curated package (modern/craftsman/transitional/traditional) with designer

Building Brews & BBQ
Instagram: @buildingbrewsandbbq
YouTube: YouTube.com/@BuildingBrewsandBBQ

Hosts:
Vince Longo
longocustombuilders.com
Instagram: @longocustombuilders

Nathan Walters:
massarossa.com
Instagram: @massarossa

Produced by:
Michael Newman
michaelnewmanfilm.com
Instagram: @michaelnewmanfilm

Flooring is one of the last things installed but one of the first things you should decide. Vince and Nathan walk through smart flooring choices for new builds and remodels—how thickness impacts stair code and transitions, why engineered wood often wins, where LVP and epoxy make sense, the truth about tile and radiant heat, and why you should stop scrolling Pinterest after you pick. Plus, a few cost realities and the “dirty little secret” about future remodels.

Big Takeaways

• Pick flooring early. It affects stair rise/run, door clearances, and transitions.
• Thickness matters. 3/4” hardwood vs 3/8”–5/8” engineered changes stair math and room-to-room heights.
• Plan for transitions. Avoid trip-hazard reducers by balancing hardwood thickness with tile underlayments or sunken slab details.
• Engineered wood + urethane glue gives moisture protection and stability. Great in kitchens and even primary baths when installed right.
• Tile looks great, costs more to install. Labor and setting materials add up fast.
• Epoxy in basements is durable, easy to clean, and water-friendly. Think metallic/marbleized epoxy, not garage chip.
• Radiant heat under tile boosts comfort and can lower HVAC use; modern mat systems make it simpler.
• Reality check: Pets, kids, and traffic are what wear floors out.
• Refinishing myth: Most homeowners rarely refinish once they move in. If you will, it usually happens during a future remodel.
• Sample early. Approve a stain or prefinished color up front and carry it to every other selection.

Mentioned in the Episode

• Engineered hardwood (multi-ply cores, glue-down with moisture-barrier adhesive)
• LVP/LVT as a basement budget play
• Porcelain tile with improved print variety and crisp edges
• Large-format porcelain panels to minimize grout lines
• Radiant heat mats (e.g., Schluter-type systems)
• Metallic/marbleized epoxy for basements and entertainment spaces

Building Brews & BBQ
Instagram: @buildingbrewsandbbq
YouTube: YouTube.com/@BuildingBrewsandBBQ

Hosts:
Vince Longo
longocustombuilders.com
Instagram: @longocustombuilders

Nathan Walters:
massarossa.com
Instagram: @massarossa

Produced by:
Michael Newman
michaelnewmanfilm.com
Instagram: @michaelnewmanfilm

In this episode, Vince and Nathan break down how to design porches, patios, and backyard zones that you will actually use. They compare fixed vs. motorized screens, explain why patio heaters belong in the plans and not as an afterthought, and map out comfortable footprints for lounge, dining, and cooking without crowding. You will hear the real talk on outdoor kitchens, pizza ovens, sun and wind management, turf inlays, and whether a fireplace or a fire pit makes better sense. They also cover pool timing, features that matter, and why a separate spa often delivers more value. If you are building or renovating, this guide will save you from costly do-overs and help you create an outdoor space that feels like a true extension of your home.

What we cover

• Front porch comeback: Community, airflow, and simple upgrades that make it usable.
• Screen strategies: Fixed panels vs. motorized systems, when each makes sense, and why power and framing prep matter.
• Heat and comfort: Ceiling and wall-mount patio heaters, sleeves, clearances, controls, and why this is a mechanical-stage decision.
• Layout zones: Lounge with fireplace, dining for 8–10, and a real cooking station. Typical footprints that avoid a cramped feel.
• Outdoor kitchens: The standard kit (grill, Kamado, sink, trash, drawers, beverage cooler), plus pizza ovens and wood-fired setups.
• Deck vs. slab vs. pavers: Hardscape choices, paths, turf inlays, and maintenance tradeoffs.
• Sun, wind, bugs: Western exposure solutions, overhangs, screens, and the reality of pollen and flies.
• Pools that fit the lot: Why many pools are built with the foundation, tanning ledges, beach entries, and when a separate spa is smarter.
• Fireplace vs. fire pit: Heat, conversation flow, and where each belongs.

Pro Tips

• Plan outside like the inside. Run power, gas, water, and conduit during rough-in. Pretend the patio is a kitchen and living room.
• Oversize now, thank yourself later. A comfortable three-zone porch often needs about 16’ deep by 26’–28’ wide.
• Screens are a system. Budget for power, headers, tracks, and access panels before you frame.
• Heaters need design. Confirm gas vs. electric, amperage, sleeve kits, and control locations during the plans phase.
• Future pool? Ask for the larger gas meter and extra electrical capacity now. Stubbing lines is cheap during rough-in.
• Outdoor audio. Pre-wire landscape speakers along paths and garden beds during trenching.
• Hose bibs everywhere. Add one on the porch and any upper decks for cleaning and plant care.

Gear and ideas mentioned

• Motorized screen systems and fixed panels
• Infrared patio heaters and ceiling sleeves
• Kamado cookers, built-in grills, pizza ovens
• Turf between pavers, crushed granite paths
• Sunken fire pits and pool-adjacent cook sheds

Building Brews & BBQ
Instagram: @buildingbrewsandbbq
YouTube: YouTube.com/@BuildingBrewsandBBQ

Hosts:
Vince Longo
longocustombuilders.com
Instagram: @longocustombuilders

Nathan Walters:
massarossa.com
Instagram: @massarossa

Produced by:
Michael Newman
michaelnewmanfilm.com
Instagram: @michaelnewmanfilm